Eastward to Istanbul

From Madrid to La Alberca to Salamanca to Coimbra to Oporto, to return to Madrid and leave the Iberian Peninsula.  We me with 3 of our Pueblo Inglés friends during our one night in Madrid and enjoyed an evening of remembrances and stories and future possibilities.  What a splendid 3 weeks it has been and we certainly our thinking of returning soon.

Istanbul is where the Arndt family reunion is occurring and is the center point of our trip.  We arrived  about 17:30 and after buying our Turkish visa, passing through Border Control, etc., we took the trams to our hostel.  We were immediately offered tea, a detailed explanation of what this hostel offers its guests, and we were invited to join others for the evening meal of a yogurt cucumber soup and a delicious rice and potato pilaf.

The next day was the Gastronomic Tour one of my cousins had organized ( a thank you to Prue) that was led by a long-time friend of my Arndt aunt and uncle.  We met at the eastern end of the Gallata Bridge and then began our walking / talking / eating tour of Istanbul.  Included was walking into one of the few Hans remaining in Istanbul which are very similar in construction as the Houtongs we saw in Beijing a few years ago.  The primary difference is that Hans are where similar types of businesses are in operation and the Houtongs tend to be residences.  My cousin noted that from Istanbul into western China, the language is Turkish or a dialect thereof.

Our 2nd breakfast began with a bread circle that was the size of a large American Pretzel covered with roasted sesame seeds and served with clotted cream and honey.  Sliced tomatoes, cucumbers as well as tea was served and it was difficult to not eat everything.  The next food presentation was after we'd taken the ferry to Asia and from there it was an endless array of different shops and foods.  Megan has sent the list to us of all the places and foods so I can try to recreate, as much as possible, what is so enjoyable here.  Pistachio is king and is typically in and around most every food.  The pistachios here  are very green in colour and the flavor doesn't remind me of what I've eaten in the USA so it could be a challenge to find this in Colorado.

We ended with Turkish ice cream which uses an orchid root for the binder.  Though it was delicious, for me their ice cream paled in comparison to the foods and sweets we had eaten earlier in the day.  And a word to those who enjoy baklava; the original recipes didn't use honey.

I need to eat lightly tomorrow as my consumption today was immense, especially the pistachios.

Douro upper valley and Port wine

We took a tour into the upper Douro River valley to see the vineyards from whence all that lovely port wine is created.  The lack of what I would call soil and yet hundreds of acres of vines terraced into the steep hillsides is a testament to the tenacity of these people and the grapes themselves.

The oldest vineyards are single lengthy rows of vines and the soiled is chewed-up chist.  The newer terraces have been bulldozed from the hillside and are two lengthy rows of vines just wide enough apart for use of miniature-sized mechanization to help take care of the vines.  The newest vines of all are planted in rows from the top of the hill to the bottom instead of along the contours as they can fit in 1/3 more vines and increase the production levels accordingly.  This also allows the vines to get more consistent sun.

And heat takes on a whole new meaning when you're walking on top of sun-baked chist.  The evaporation rate from my body means drinking copious amounts of water as well as the port wines.  White port and tonic water are incredibly refreshing but I don't know if I can buy white port in the USA.

Our tour was about 50 kilometers up-valley and then an hour trip on the river which had beautiful views of the many, many vineyards.  The Douro used to be a very treacherous trip until the dams and locks were put in and this was the only transportation for the large barrels of port wine to make their way to winery caves at the mouth of this river.

The hospitality of the two vineyards we visited was outstanding.  One of them had already begun a Saturday night family barbecue and insisted we have food as well as his port.  The views were spectacular despite the smoke from the down-valley wildfires.

Our trip back to Oporto took much longer than usual as our guide drove significantly north of the usual route in an effort to avoid the worst of the smoked and fires.  As it was, we had a few views of flaming trees on either side of our route and at one point the trees just by the road were now just vertical glowing sticks of former trees.  That was closer than I liked.

Safely back in Oporto about 23:00 and the next day we made our pilgrimage to the Graham's winery. We treated ourselves to tasting 6 of their ports that we would never buy, not at 100€ per bottle and up.  We enjoyed ourselves for a couple of hours just tasting 6 ports.  They must've have liked us because our guide then offered us a small taste of the 50 year old that was bottled for Queen Elizabeth's Diamond Jubilee.  It was the best, absolutely the best, of flavors and viscosity.  I was born in a very good year!

Oporto, Portugal

Oporto old garden

This is a fantasy city.  I stopped as soon as I got off the train to view the beauty of the track area.  I stopped again upon entering the main station and seeing the huge and beautiful tile murals depicting some of Portugal's history.  I stopped again when I first saw the buildings perched on hillsides immediately outside of the doorway of the train station.  It doesn't end.
The city's age is as old as Portugal itself and the range of construction from old to older to oldest is not so much in one part of the city as sprinkled throughout the many hills, narrow streets, and narrower stairways.  New, to Oporto, begins about the 17th century; the U.S.A. is so young.
We have discovered many wonderful and unexpected views of narrow winding streets that drop precipitously just by following our noses in the general direction we want to go instead of staying with the busier streets.

Oporto old city

Though many here speak English we have wandered our way into the older residential areas and have used our inadequate Spanish with their Portuguese and as much pantomime as needed to find what we desire.  In some instances the purchase of a postcard, locating where to buy a stamp, and then mailing from a post office takes us into areas we might not otherwise see. This, for me, is one of the best parts of traveling.
A few days ago I was engaged in at least 30 minutes of conversation with a university student with topics ranging from pleasantries to politics, and what is the culture she would find if she traveled in my country.  How do I begin to explain the variety of cultures and biases and the excellent and the not-so-grand?  I gave my best effort to describe my homeland and her English was superb so I think we both enjoyed our time; I hope her wish to travel to NYC and other places comes true soon.

Figs on the tree.

Forty-eight

That's how many boards are in the ceiling, 48.

Higher Education

 Yesterday began with a very early morning arrival in Combria, Portugal.  We dawdled around at the local cafe until 7:30 and then we could drop our luggage off at the Hostal and then we began walking.    There is a lovely pedestrian bridge and at least two other bridges crossing the wide and lovely Mondego river.  The early morning humidity is palpable and the air temperature is comfortably cool which will not make up for later in the day when it is in the high 90s.

Organ

Much of Combria is built on the sides of a substantial hill with the university capping the top, truly higher education.  Though the university is not in session until next month we did see some students wearing the traditional ankle-length black capes.  Until about 1960 students were expected to wear their capes nearly all the time to distinguish them from the general populace though it reminds me of Hogwarts. Now the capes are just for special occasions.

Cork is Portugal and Portugal is cork.  So many items are available in cork (usually bonded to leather or fabric): purses, shoes, belts, postcards, hip flasks, etc. and I now have a cork belt.  Fresh fruits and vegetables are in season and delicious with many vendors to choose from in the alley-wide streets.  Pastries are everywhere and the classic recipes come from the many convents that were in this area during past centuries.  Churches are everywhere and though some are, in relative terms, plainer than others they are all amazingly beautiful.

The majority of churches use minimal artificial light unless mass is being held and the low light adds to the majesty of the many plaster and wood sculptures. While I was exiting from one of these churches, one near the onion market, I stepped into the white glare of the afternoon sun, from a comfortable temperature to perspiring in a second of time.  I also walked from a flat surface onto a  shallow step and went tumbling down.  Thankfully, nothing seemed amiss so we kept on and enjoyed more shops  and sights.  We eventually headed back to the Hostal for a much needed siesta and shower.

About 5 pm we joined up with our gastronomic tour.  As we walked from pastry shops to restaurants we learned some history more of the area's history.  My foot was aching more and more and I dccided  that continuing this tour was impossible.  Then a taxi to the hospital, 4 x-rays, and an ortho doc who told me that nothing was broken but I needed to stop walking for about 72 hours.  I am so glad that I walked around so much before this happened and Gary will have to take lots of photos while I stay
off my foot.

Ah, Portugal

And forty-eight?  That's the number of boards in the ceiling of our room in the Hostal.  I've counted them several times since I began resting my foot.  Next stop is Porto and I want to be walking well.

This is the week that was.

Public Library in Salamenca, Spain

My 8 days with Pueblo Inglés have ended and I am the better for it.  My hope is that all of the Spaniards I met and worked with feel similarly.

The daily schedule began with an 8:15 wake-up call and typically ended after midnight, how long after midnight depended on the vitality of those involved. Some of the participants (Anglos and Spaniards) were teachers with a goodly mix of business people and a few retirees.  Though the tension was noticeable, especially for the Spaniards, we all were set to give our best during the coming days.  The majority of us rode the bus from Madrid to La Alberca and began to get to know each other.

Anyone who has taken a language class knows that the first topics learned are family descriptions and the early conversations tended to follow the same sequence.  The Spaniards had various levels of ability and had to contend with accents from Ireland, England, Tobago/Trinidad, U.S.A. and Indian (Hindi).  Sometimes I had trouble comprehending the various English accents so I can only imagine the strain on those attempting to learn the language.

The M.C. and Program Director excelled and kept people and events on the move, no boredom allowed within a country mile.  After the initial days of "1 on 1"s and skits and presentations we all walked to town for a demonstration of Master Ham Carving and an excellent lunch.
This locale is renowned for how they cure the meat from the black pig which is a minimum % of specific DNA and the quality of the meat is also affected by what the black pig is allowed to eat.   The Master Carvers have competitions for slicing amazingly thin pieces of meat for serving with bread, cheese and wine.  Yes, I was in my version of heaven.  I doubt that the American pork industry can match my new standard.

Midday Break

Atypical adventure

Restaurant time

Last Thursday as we wandered happily through Madrid came the inevitable need for a restroom. We happened to be near one of the busier museums so there were a large number of restaurants to choose from and, as everyone is aware, you must purchase food to use the facilities so we chose a table and put in our order.
The lighting in the restrooms is all on timers so as I entered I pressed the switch for light in the sink area and then went into the stall and pressed that switch.  After I'd completed nature's call came the fun of figuring out how to flush the bowl.  This unit did not have a water tank on it, there was not a floor pedal to be seen, there was no button on any on the walls.  That left only one surface on the inside of this cube so I looked up to the ceiling.  It was plain except for a 6" square vent for a fan which was running and a very lightweight chain; think of the kind that is attached to an unlucky rabbit's foot.  Said chain came out of the ceiling about 2" from the vent and the end of it was significantly above my head.  With no other opportunity I stood on my toes, pulled the chain and heard the success of water flowing through the bowl.
It is indeed the little things that keep life interesting.

There is now Here.

Filled to the brim with anticipation! Of course there's always time for kissing.

I feel that we traveled for 2 full days but it's less than 24 hours.  All of the many kiddies on the flight slept like the babes they are and I recommend British Airways to everyone. We are happily ensconced in Hostal Santa Barbara, Madrid.

The restaurant food we have had is delicious, the Pilsner style beer flows and flows, it's near midnight and the cafe tables are full, it's comfortably warm and our floor to ceiling window in our room is wide open.
Locating an inexpensive phone has been an interesting task.  It turns out that, at least in Spain, we should have stopped at a kiosk which is located somewhere in the Metro (subway) at the airport.  I'm inclined to not have a phone at all at this point.

 

madrid fashion

It was easy to buy a 3-day metro pass at the airport and make our way to the correct plaza.  Then the fun began as street addresses are not in sequential order and the few people we asked hadn't heard of this place.  I've overheard only a very small amount of English while we walked around and the part of Madrid we are in is clean and well kept.
Breakfast was a delicious multi-layered sandwich of fried egg, tomatoes, lettuce, and ham that was so large we shared.  With 2 coffees and a water the price was all of 7.25€.

sándwich de huevos

Blue skies, 26 C, and I'm drinking water like crazy.  Today we found the Library Museum which had exhibits on the history of writing implements, books, presses.  Items included feather pens, old typewriters, to an early Apple.  The range of book examples included scratched metal pages.  My crude translations gave me an overview if not the exact detail of what I was 'reading'.
Another exhibit was La Transicíon de Tinta China and had plenty of political cartoons from the Spanish Civil War to late 20th century.  The majority of these took only a knowledge of history to understand.  Political satire is universal.

recatadas damas

Almost ready

Whatever is not done is not going to be done before we fly out tomorrow.  That's as close to preparedness as I can be and keep my emphasis on the more desirable enjoyment of the pre-trip partying with friends and family.
We left home last Friday after gathering with friends and hearing of their travels and sharing our travels and gorging on experiences.  Now we're in Denver and enjoying more of the same for what has become a splendid send-off.
Over the last 48 hours we have filled in the remaining gaps for lodging in a variety of hostels for the initial 30 days. The other reservations will have to be made later and we hope there is still room at the inn.
I'm slightly incredulous at what we have planned and I'm thoroughly ecstatic about the adventures that can't be planned and just happen.
Earlier today I found a Gastronomic tour in Coimbra, Portugal, that is a walking tour of local history mingled with multiple restaurants featuring local specialities.  How could it be better?

Sethra the Good